Summer Escapes Part II
Taygetus Mountain: Sparti - Megalopolis
This is a local recipe from Lakonia and is a very rustic, traditional village recipe with rooster but it can also be made with chicken. Kokoras Bardouniotikos means Rooster from Vordonia area. Before giving the recipe I would like to tell you a few things about the Mountain and show you some of the pictures I took.
The Vordonia area is situated in Central Taygetus Mountain range. During our last trip to Sparta we passed from Vordonia on our way to my husband’s village, which is in Arcadia. It was the first time we took this route through the mountain range of Taygetus, as there is a much easier and quicker route to the village but was so worth it.
Just before entering Sparta from Athens, after the villages of Kladas (where we usually stay) and Kokkinorachi, passing the bridge of Evrotas River, you turn right to Loganikos. The route is on the left bank of Evrotas River and mostly paralell to the river. The Evrotas plain is full of orange groves but moving upwards on the lowest part of the mountain it is full of olive groves. Going up the slopes of Taygetus you suddenly realize that they are heavily forested, primarily with Greek fir (Abies Cephallonica) and black pine (pinus nigra) interchanged by forests of chestnut trees ( I have never seen so many chestnut trees in my life!!!), huge platanus and eucalyptus trees and of course cypresses, cherry trees, walnut trees, fig trees etc.
As you may see from the picture of the mountain below, the route is about where I drew the red line and is on an altitude about 800 metres, fairly low compared to the height of the mountain which is 2410 metres, but the view from up there is spectacular, mostly of the Evrotas plain, of gorges and ravines and right opposite is the Parnonas mountain range.
Imagine the view from Profitis Elias (προφήτης Ηλίας) , the highest summit of the mountain range, where you can see up to the sea. This peak has the shape of a pyramid.
Some researchers are convinced that this structure was carved by the hand of man, in remote antiquity, to form this pyramid shape. Others, however, believe that this is nothing but a natural rock formation. No erosion mechanism has been suggested (to date) which could create this shape naturally. Particularly curious are the strange shadows cast at dawn and sunset. It is said that in ancient years, Spartans built a temple of Apollo at the peak. A church of Profitis Elias can be found at the same place.
Taygetus is not only rich in flora but also fauna. The Taygetus flora numbers about 160 Greek endemic plants out of which 28 exist only on Taygetus and the fauna is rich in reptiles as well as in birds and mammals. Today its fauna includes 85 species of birds, 19 species of mammals and 33 types of reptiles, among which wolves, foxes, rabbits etc., but the most significant is the wild cattle, which the Spaniards want to take to Spain to breed their bulls. During the route we saw hawks and eagles flying but unfortunately I did not manage to capture them in a picture.
We stopped at the Springs of Evrotas, 22 km before reaching Megalopolis. We didn’t know about them until we saw the sign and as it was only 2 km off our route, we decided to check it out.
In fact it was very beautiful, with some swans and ducks swimming a very serene location with cool atmosphere, fresh air, shady, perfect for a short rest or a picnic.
Now back to the recipe. The recipe and the rooster were given to me by my sister-in-law. My sister-in-law makes it with potatoes and I think it’s a great addition and I made her recipe without changing it.
In the classic recipe there are no potatoes in it but is served with pasta, such as hilopites. The meat and onions are browned in olive oil before stewing and then it is simmered until cooked. In the end a lot of sphella cheese (or feta) and some kalamata olives are added and the combination of cloves and cinnamon is what gives this dish its unique Greek flavor.
This year I made it again recently, this time keeping it without the cheeses for me and making it healthier, without too much oil.
Kokkoras Bardouniotikos – Traditional Greek recipe
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour 30 minutes
Serves: 4
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Ingredients: |
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½ |
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Rooster (I used half which was 1.300 grams) |
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10 |
Small |
Potatoes or 3 big ones, cut into big pieces (optional) |
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4 |
Medium |
Red onions, cut into four pieces (or 12 whole smaller ones) |
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3 |
Medium |
White onions, cut into four pieces |
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2 - 3 |
Cloves |
Garlic, finely chopped |
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3 |
Tbsp |
Olive oil |
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4 - 5 |
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Ripe tomatoes or 1 can whole tomatoes (500 grams), blended |
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2 |
Cups |
Water |
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1 |
Tsp |
Salt |
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6 |
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Pepper corns, plus freshly ground black pepper |
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5 |
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Allspice berries |
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2 |
Pieces |
Cinnamon stick |
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6 - 8 |
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Cloves |
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2 |
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Bay leaves |
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150 |
Grams |
Feta (preferably aged), cubed |
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150 |
grams |
Graviera , cubed (or use only feta 300 grams) |
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Directions: |
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1. |
Wash and cut rooster into portions. |
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2. |
Heat the olive oil in the sautéing pan and sauté rooster on both sides. |
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3. |
Remove to a platter and then add the potatoes. |
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4. |
When you have sautéed potatoes on one side, turn over and add the onions and garlic and sauté them together. |
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5. |
Put rooster back into the sautéing pan and add the spices. |
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6. |
Add tomato and water and place the lid on the sautéing pan, lower heat to minimum and simmer for one hour and thirty minutes. (It may take more or less time depending on how old the rooster is). |
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7. |
If you are cooking on an electric or ceramic stove, turn heat off and add the cheese, mix and cook for another five minutes, otherwise do not turn heat off but continue cooking for 5 more minutes. |
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8. |
Serve while it is still hot. |
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Other similar recipes:
Oregano and Olive Oil from Taygetus Mountain
Chocolate and Pastelli Cookies - Lakonia Part II
Tags: Greek cheese, Holidays, Laconia, Photos, Potatoes, Poultry, Rooster, Spartan, Traditional
September 8th, 2009 at 11:48 pm
You live in such a beautiful country! I’d love to visit Greece again…
What a scrumptious looking dish!
Cheers,
Rosa
September 9th, 2009 at 1:39 am
Beautiful pictures Ivy. Your rooster dish sounds delicious! Flavorful and comforting.
September 9th, 2009 at 5:31 am
Delicious dish with rooster (I’m not sure if I had rooster before or just chicken)! Love your pictures, so gorgeous! I really hope we get a chance to visit Greece, maybe next year.
September 9th, 2009 at 6:32 am
beutiful pictures and delicious dish!i hope you are ok,from romania,alison
September 9th, 2009 at 9:46 am
Beautiful picture. Love that chicken too. Delicous
September 9th, 2009 at 11:48 am
Gorgeous pictures..a wonderful place dear!
September 9th, 2009 at 1:07 pm
Taygetus is a mountain of extraordinary beuaty and variety. And when weather allows, you can see even Crete from Prophitis Elias.
September 9th, 2009 at 2:13 pm
How r u doing dear? Recipe looks extremely drool worthy…..nice pics too…
September 9th, 2009 at 5:02 pm
This looks absolutely lovely, Ivy! SO delicious. Thank you for the informative article, too!
September 10th, 2009 at 1:40 am
Ivy, what a delicious meal. Yes, I would probably use chicken as opposed to rooster, but I bet it’s just as pleasing. I love the new photos, especially the ones you took of the mountains. I’m partial to mountains. We have some gorgeous ones here in El Paso, Texas.
September 10th, 2009 at 3:49 am
Hi Ivy, when I looked at the picture of the birds in the barn, it reminded me when I was a kid, my mom kept a small barn as such and I love to collect the eggs! Though the eggs were smaller then the large farm breeds but it’s from free range chickens. One thing made me sad was… all my cute chubby chickens turned large. Instead of playing with them and take them in my basket on a bicycle ride, they chased me instead!
September 10th, 2009 at 11:54 am
Wow Ivy the photos are fantastic! I do love nature and scenery like this is just priceless.
Great recipe it looks delicious.
September 10th, 2009 at 11:26 pm
The mountains look incredible! And, the slow-roasted chicken with potatoes sounds delicious.
September 11th, 2009 at 5:03 am
Great pics, Ivy. This dish is such a perfect greek dish - one of those really simple dishes that tastes great and is so comforting.
September 11th, 2009 at 4:56 pm
Beautiful beautiful Pictures. I hope & wish that in this life time i will be able to visit Greece at least once.
This recipe sounds so much like a light chicken curry. except for the use of Feta. the cheese must make it creamy. Beautiful recipe.
September 11th, 2009 at 6:25 pm
Greece reminds me so many good souvenirs !! and food was so good ; thanks to share this with the rest of the world !
and if you like French food come to visit my blog you are most welcome
au revoir ! Pierre
September 11th, 2009 at 9:01 pm
Wow, Ivy! This dish looks delicious! I really enjoyed your picture tour!
September 12th, 2009 at 6:25 am
Hi Ivy, when I looked at the picture of the birds in the barn, it reminded me when I was a kid, my mom kept a small barn as such and I love to collect the eggs! Though the eggs were smaller then the large farm breeds but it’s from free range chickens. One thing made me sad was… all my cute chubby chickens turned large. Instead of playing with them and take them in my basket on a bicycle ride, they chased me instead! :-D…
September 12th, 2009 at 1:29 pm
What a great looking dish Ivy - and fabulous scenery!!
September 13th, 2009 at 4:23 pm
Wonderful pictures of Sparta … unforunately I vageuly remember Sparta only have pix to remind me … Rooster looks wonderful … can imagine its full bodied flavour.
September 14th, 2009 at 10:54 am
Hola Ivy!!!! It’s great to be back at your place again :D. As always, your recipes are sooooo true and authentic :D.
I’ve been thinking a lot about you during the summer. These horrible fires have worried me a lot. Hope that you and your family had a wonderful summer time though :D.
I should start adding olives to my dishes, the taste must be soooo good with them